Art galleries are springing up in La Paz like cactus flowers after the rains. In the past year alone, five new galleries have opened, all in easy walk from one another. In addition, there are treasures on the walls of a new restaurant, a bookstore and a coffeeshop. I’ve drawn a map that will lead you on a self-guided tour of 10 venues for art browsing. Each red dot on the map below is numbered, matched up to the key below the map. Most galleries closed for a holiday break; they should be open again by Jan. 5. Your first stop could be the tourist information centre on the corner of 16 de Septiembre and Belizario Dominguez. It’s a few steps away from our first stop on the gallery circuit. There you can pick up a city map and learn more about La Paz.
1. Teatro Juárez
This historic building opened as a community theatre almost 100 years ago. It’s now a centre for music, dance and theatre, as well as exhibitions of art. A group of citizens has undertaken a major restoration project, financed by people who support the theatre. There’s generally a new exhibit every month. Location: Belizario Dominguez between 16 de Septiembre and Independencia. Hours: 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday.
2. Galería Gato Negro
La Paz artists Lila Magallón and Nora White opened this gallery in 2008. Last month they launched a major show, continuing this month, of 10 contemporary La Paz painters and sculptors. The gallery is next to Teatro Juárez on Belizario Domingez 1435, between 16 de Septiembre and Independencia. An artist is on hand 10 am to 2 pm Monday through Saturday, but you can visit the gallery whenever the adjoining restaurant is open (8 a.m. to 11 p.m.). For more information, e-mail galeriagatonegro@gmail.com
This historic building opened as a community theatre almost 100 years ago. It’s now a centre for music, dance and theatre, as well as exhibitions of art. A group of citizens has undertaken a major restoration project, financed by people who support the theatre. There’s generally a new exhibit every month. Location: Belizario Dominguez between 16 de Septiembre and Independencia. Hours: 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 5 to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday.
2. Galería Gato Negro
La Paz artists Lila Magallón and Nora White opened this gallery in 2008. Last month they launched a major show, continuing this month, of 10 contemporary La Paz painters and sculptors. The gallery is next to Teatro Juárez on Belizario Domingez 1435, between 16 de Septiembre and Independencia. An artist is on hand 10 am to 2 pm Monday through Saturday, but you can visit the gallery whenever the adjoining restaurant is open (8 a.m. to 11 p.m.). For more information, e-mail galeriagatonegro@gmail.com
3. Loto Cafebrería
This little gem of an enterprise is a coffeeshop, gallery, art workshop, gift and book-and-magazine store rolled into one. Loto recently celebrated its first anniversary. It’s on Independencia 415 (between Revolución and Serdán across the street from the cathedral). Phone number is 122-5054. There is generally a new exhibit every month. Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday and Saturday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
4. Allende Books
This is mainly an English-language bookstore, but you will find lots of art on the shelves and walls at Independencia #518, between Serdan and G. Prieto. Some of what you’ll see: engravings by La Paz artist Rojo, jewelry by La Reyna Sofia, paintings by San Miguel de Allende artist Carmelo Gutierrez, and retablos (bookstore owner Diane describes these as “thank-you notes to Jesus”) by indigenous artists. Winter hours are 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday and Saturday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Phone number is (612)125 9114.
5. Baja Six Art Group Gallery
Check back sometime in the future for this one. Classes continue, but the gallery is dormant. There are no regular hours posted. The building is next door to the art supplies store Papeleria Agruel, Guillermo Prieto #189 (between Reforma and Independencia).
6. Galerías Pax
This bright and shiny gallery is also a gift store and coffeeshop. It opened in December with an exhibit of recent work by La Reyna Sofia. In January, you can see paintings by San Luis Potosi artist Martha Harris. Gallery head Susana Alexander y Santin, who has moved here from Tijuana, also features the work of several high-quality artisanos from mainland Mexico. Location: Guillermo Prieto #1250 (between Cinco de Mayo and Constitución). Phone number is 121-6853. Hours 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Friday; also open Saturday.
7. Galería de Arte Tonantzin
The gallery owners were once lawyers in Mexico City, but they developed a passion for art. Last year they moved to La Paz, which, says Moíses, enchanted them immediately. Tonantzin (the name has connections to both the Aztec goddess and the Virgin Mary) is not just an art gallery, but a cultural space for live performances. You'll find prehistoric pieces and contemporary Sudcalifornian and Latin American artists. There are concerts of live music in the gallery courtyard some evenings. Location: Constitución 320 (between Aquiles Serdán and Revolución), the same block as the post office. Phone number: 044-612-154-8136. Hours: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 8:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday.
8. Las Tres Vírgenes
It’s actually a restaurant, but this stately old mansion-turned-restaurant is also the showcase for paintings of La Paz artist Ken Bonner, whose work is inspired by the beauty and colours of the Baja. You can see Bonner’s paintings whenever the restaurant is open, 5 to about 11 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday (the restaurant is closed Mondays). Las Tres Vírgenes reopened in December at this new location, 1130 Madero (between Constitución and Hidalgo), in the same block but across the street from its old location. For more information, contact the artist at painting_ken@hotmail.com or contact the restaurant (telephone 123-2226 or email lastresvirgenes@email.com ).
9. Ches & Gabo
The gallery features artists Alejandra Morente, Alfredo Mendoza and the well-known Baja painter Gabo. For now, viewing is by appointment only. I’m told that the gallery will soon establish regular hours and that there will also be shows of works by visiting artists. You can check to see if hours are posted on the door as you pass by the gallery on Belizario Dominguez 274 (between Cinco de Mayo and Constitución), Meanwhile, for information you can phone Alfredo on his cell phone: 044-612-157-8244.
10. Galería La Paz
Sidne Byars, an artist, collector and real-estate agent, established her first art gallery in La Paz 13 years ago. She features contemporary Mexican artists such as Gabo and Miguel Ramirez. You will also find original pieces that are functional – a clock, a lazy susan, a piece of furniture. The gallery is on the Malecón on Alvaro Obregón 299 and Constitución. Galería La Paz, which doubles as a real estate office, is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. A second gallery is on Independencia, between Belizario Dominguez and Obregón. For more information, contact Sidne Byars sidne@galeria-la-paz.com
OFF THE MAP
They’re outside this map’s boundaries, but don’t forget these two major venues for art exhibitions in La Paz.
Alianza Francesa: There’s always a new exhibit at the French cultural centre. Admission is free. Centro Cultural Roger de Conynk is on Revolución 635 between Moreles and Guadalupe Victoria. It’s open Monday through Friday 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 5 to 7 p.m, and on Saturday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. It’s the site of films, live performances of music, roundtable discussions and other special events.
Galería de Arte Carlos Olachea: Exhibits change monthly at this major gallery, which is next to Teatro de la Ciudad at Unidad Cultural, Navarro and Héroes de Independencia. Admission is free. Hours are Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and weekends 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Also check out the vestibule of Teatro de la Ciudad for other changing exhibits.
Alianza Francesa: There’s always a new exhibit at the French cultural centre. Admission is free. Centro Cultural Roger de Conynk is on Revolución 635 between Moreles and Guadalupe Victoria. It’s open Monday through Friday 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 5 to 7 p.m, and on Saturday 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. It’s the site of films, live performances of music, roundtable discussions and other special events.
Galería de Arte Carlos Olachea: Exhibits change monthly at this major gallery, which is next to Teatro de la Ciudad at Unidad Cultural, Navarro and Héroes de Independencia. Admission is free. Hours are Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and weekends 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Also check out the vestibule of Teatro de la Ciudad for other changing exhibits.
