26.8.08

¡Viva México! Join the Party

In the early hours of September 16th, 1810, a priest in the small town of Dolores, near Guanajuato, rang the church bell to gather the townspeople. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla called for the people of Mexico to rise up against the Spanish Crown.

The exact words of his speech are lost; however, in one reconstructed version, Hidalgo is believed to have cried: "Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe, death to bad government, and death to the Spaniards!"

It took a decade of war before Mexico's independence would finally be recognized by the Spanish crown on September 27, 1821. But it is Hidalgo’s “Grito de Dolores” in 1810 that is commemorated as the start of Mexico's War of Independence.

In La Paz, people will gather in the evening of Sept. 15th at the Governor’s Palace (on Isobel la Católica between Bravo and Rosales, across the street from the CCC. This is a huge party. There will be singing, dancing, family entertainment, food, colourful costumes, lots and lots of people, and fireworks. (Speaking of fireworks, if you're close to the action, you might want to follow the advice of one writer, who notes that misfired fireworks can cause injury. Cuidado.)
The climax of the evening comes at 11 p.m., when the governor and the crowd reenact the call for independence. You’ll hear shouts of “¡Viva México!” and “¡Viva la independencia!”

This celebration is going on in every community across Mexico. The largest is in Mexico City's Zocalo, which is decorated from the beginning of September with red, white and green lights and flags. On the 15th, at 11 p.m., President Felipe Calderón will go out onto the central balcony of the National Palace (Palacio Nacional) and will ring the same bell that Hidalgo rang in 1810. Calderón will shout to the people gathered in the square below: “Viva Mexico!” As in La Paz, fireworks will light up the sky and the crowd will cheer.

It’s said that by law, the president is required to travel – at least once in his six-year presidential term – to the historic town of Dolores Hidalgo in the State of Guanajuato to give the shout of independence from the same building where it was first heard.

The activities continue Sept. 16 with civic ceremonies and parades. In La Paz, there will be parade along Obregón in the morning. I’m told it starts at 8 a.m. – you might want to double-check the time with the tourism office, as that seems mighty early for all the folks out partying at the Governor’s Palace the night before.

Certain foods are considered representative of Independence Day. A favorite is pozole, a soup made of hominy and pork. Other foods have the colors of the Mexican flag - red white and green. Look for guacamole, poblano and chiles en nogada. This last dish is created in such a way to display the Mexican flag: green chiles are stuffed with meat, covered in white sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds on top.